TIFFANY & CO., LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY, ART NOUVEAU, TOPAZ, EMERALD AND POLYCHROME ENAMEL NECKLACE
Sale 746 - Fine and Important Jewelry
May 14, 2020
10:00AM CT
Live / Chicago
Estimate
$10,000 -
$15,000
Sold for $60,000
Sold prices are inclusive of Buyer’s Premium
Lot Description
TIFFANY & CO., LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY, ART NOUVEAU, TOPAZ, EMERALD AND POLYCHROME ENAMEL NECKLACE
Consisting of a central pendant containing one oval shape mixed cut topaz measuring approximately 24.50 x 13.00 x 8.90 mm, surrounded by 14 rectangular step cut emeralds, overlaid with four sections of gold sculptural leaves with basse-taille enamel and wirework detail, suspended from a pendant containing one briolette cut topaz and one shield shape emerald, with basse-taille enamel leaf surround, the double fancy link necklace interspersed with seven sections of links containing oval shape mixed cut topaz and rectangular step cut emeralds with basse-taille enamel leaf and wirework detail.
Stamp: TIFFANY & Co.
47.10 dwt.
Stamp: TIFFANY & Co.
47.10 dwt.
Property from the Estate of Linda Zoe Jenkins, Roseville, Minnesota
Louis Comfort Tiffany grew up surrounded by jewelry and fine objects. His father, Charles Lewis Tiffany founded the eponymous Tiffany & Co. in New York in 1837. He was fascinated with how light interacted with colors and its effects in glass and founded his own glass making company in 1885.
In 1902, Charles Lewis Tiffany passed away and left Tiffany & Co. to his son. Louis Comfort Tiffany began designing jewelry under the Tiffany & Co. brand, which aligned with the rest of his design sensibility and utilized the effects of light in the form of enamel and colored gemstones. Great emphasis was made on the imperfect, handmade quality of Arts & Crafts style, as well as the curving lines and natural inspiration from Art Nouveau. Tiffany hired two women, Meta Overbeck and Julia Munson, to help design and oversee the jewelry department. They utilized precious and semi-precious gemstones with unique color combinations.
In 1902, Charles Lewis Tiffany passed away and left Tiffany & Co. to his son. Louis Comfort Tiffany began designing jewelry under the Tiffany & Co. brand, which aligned with the rest of his design sensibility and utilized the effects of light in the form of enamel and colored gemstones. Great emphasis was made on the imperfect, handmade quality of Arts & Crafts style, as well as the curving lines and natural inspiration from Art Nouveau. Tiffany hired two women, Meta Overbeck and Julia Munson, to help design and oversee the jewelry department. They utilized precious and semi-precious gemstones with unique color combinations.
Offered from the Estate of Linda Zoe Jenkins, Roseville, Minnesota, Lot 81 is an extraordinary example of ‘Tiffany Art Jewelry’, combining semi-precious golden topaz gemstones with precious emeralds. The intricately wrought wirework settings and finely rendered enamel leaves of this necklace make it a beautiful example of the art jewelry that Tiffany made during his time overseeing the American jewelry house. A necklace of this quality, condition and design exemplifies Tiffany’s unique interpretation of the turn of the century design movements and sensibility and make it a collector’s piece not often seen at auction.
Condition Report
Please contact the jewelry department at jewelrycr@hindmanauctions.com for any additional information or questions you may have regarding this lot. Please note that measurements and opinions on gems are given as a courtesy and are approximated. It is recommended you schedule a virtual appointment with a specialist before placing a bid.
Measurements: The necklace measures approximately 25 inches long, with two pendant drops at bottom measuring approximately 2 7/8 inches long.
Overall Condition: Electronic test indicates the metal is 18 karat gold. There is some loss of enamel to the edges of the leaves. There are moderate scratches to the metal.
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