Signed French Period Jewels and Diamonds Shine Bright at Freeman's | Hindman's Important Jewelry Auction

Freeman’s | Hindman’s Important Jewelry auction, held on March 20 at the firm’s Chicago saleroom, achieved impressive results, totaling nearly $2.5 million with a strong 91% sell-through rate by lot and 117% by value. The auction’s standout lot was a stunning 9.01-carat cushion-cut diamond ring by Aletto Brothers, the prestigious South Florida jeweler by way of Italy. The ring far exceeded its low estimate of $100,000, fetching an impressive $229,100 (including Buyer’s Premium). The day’s success was further marked by the strong performance of signed French Belle Epoque and Art Deco jewels, which are rare in the open auction marketplace. A standout example was a Cartier Belle Époque Diamond, Enamel, and Platinum ‘Plaque De Cou’ with historic provenance, which realized $102,100, well above its pre-sale estimate. The auction highlighted the continued appeal of important signed jewelry, with rare pieces commanding competitive bidding. 

Lot 105 | ALETTO BROTHERS, 9.01 CARAT DIAMOND RING | Sold for $229,100

 

Speaking to her impressions of the sale is April Matteini, Senior Vice President, Head of Department, Jewelry. “This week’s Important Jewelry auction in Chicago was a testament to the continued desirability of antique jewelry, particularly when it is signed or with a storied provenance. Bidders from across the globe kept the saleroom lively with spirited bidding throughout the day.” 

Lot 56 | OSCAR HEYMAN, PLATINUM AND DIAMOND RING | Sold for $140,200

Diamond rings with distinguished provenance dominated the top results of the day’s auction. A notable highlight was an Oscar Heyman Asscher-cut 5.42 carat F color/VS2 clarity diamond ring from The Shawver Art Collection Trust, which realized $140,200, surpassing its low estimate of $75,000. With diamonds accounting for the top three highest bids, this trend underscores a growing interest among private collectors, further cementing diamonds’ reputation as stable and valuable tangible assets in today’s market.

From left to right: Lot 60 | CARTIER, ART DECO, PLATINUM, DIAMOND, PEARL, AND ENAMEL EARRINGS | Sold for $76,700
Lot 58 | CARTIER, BELLE ÉPOQUE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL, AND PLATINUM 'PLAQUE DE COU', CIRCA 1905 | Sold for $102,100

French Art Deco and Belle Epoque jewelry rounded out the day’s auction triumphs, with the iconic jeweler Cartier delivering standout results. The star of the sale was a rare and exquisite Belle Époque necklace frontispiece, which boasts exceptional provenance. The Cartier Plaque De Cou, once part of the Collection of Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley and passed down by descent. Crafted in the signature 'Garland Style,' the piece features diamond wreaths, foliage, and swags set in platinum. Notably, the 1905 necklace is distinguished by its use of white enamel along the border—a hallmark of early Cartier design. Complementing this exceptional piece were platinum, diamond, pearl, and enamel Art Deco earrings from Cartier, featuring graceful crane motifs, which realized $76,700, well above their $30,000 low estimate. These results highlight the continued allure and value of early Cartier creations. 

Additional Highlights:

· Lot 28 | ART DECO, COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING | Sold for $35,200

· Lot 29 | FRENCH, EARLY ART DECO, SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND, AND EMERALD BRACELET | Sold for $25,600

· Lot 131 | DIAMOND RING | Sold for $165,600

Freeman’s | Hindman’s upcoming important jewelry auction will take place on June 18 in New York.