Collecting Guide: Jewelry Through the Ages
Freeman’s | Hindman’s annual Jewelry Through the Ages auction explores jewelry trends and their evolution from ancient to modern. Across more than 500 lots from the 1st millennium BC to the 21st century, bidders will have the opportunity to acquire wearable pieces from a range of cultures.
Join us as we delve into the following dynamic periods of jewelry history during Days I and II of these sales: Ancient Near East, Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, Neoclassical, Georgian, Victorian, Belle Époque, Art Deco, and Retro.
Day I: Ancient to Neoclassical
Ancient Near East (Circa 3300–400 B.C.)
Lot 2 | A Western Asiatic Banded Agate and Gold Necklace | Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000
Lot 21 | A Western Asiatic Hematite Cylinder Seal | Estimate: $1,200 - 1,800
In the cradle of civilization, regions like Mesopotamia saw the emergence of intricate jewelry crafted from gold, silver, and semi-precious stones such as carnelian and lapis lazuli. Cylinder seals, often made of these materials, were worn as amulets or status symbols. These pieces not only served decorative purposes but also held religious and social significance, indicating the wearer's status and beliefs.
Ancient Egyptian (Circa 3100–30 B.C.)
Lot 32 | An Egyptian Steatite Scarab | Estimate: $1,000 - 2,000
Lot 27 | Two Egyptian Faience Rings | Estimate: $600 - 800
Egyptian jewelry is renowned for its symbolism and use of vibrant materials. Crafted from gold, faience, and semi-precious stones, necklaces, bracelets, and rings often featured motifs like the scarab beetle, symbolizing rebirth, and the ankh, representing life. Jewelry was believed to offer protection and was integral in both daily wear and burial practices, underscoring its spiritual importance.
Ancient Greek (Circa 800–31 B.C.)
Lot 56 | Three Hellenistic Gold and Enamel Rosettes | Estimate: $1,200 - 1,800
Lot 44 | A Jean Mahie Bead Necklace | Estimate: $4,000 - 6,000
Greek artisans excelled in creating jewelry that balanced form and function. They utilized gold and silver to craft pieces adorned with motifs inspired by nature and mythology. Techniques such as granulation and filigree were employed to add intricate details, and the use of colored stones became more prevalent during the Hellenistic period, enhancing the visual appeal of their creations.
Ancient Roman (Circa 500 B.C.–476 A.D.)
Lot 132 | A Roman Carnelian Ringstone with Jupiter | Estimate: $800 - 1,200
Lot 109 | A Pair of Roman Gold Amphora Earrings | Estimate: $1,200 - 1,800
Roman jewelry was known for its diversity and opulence. Influenced by the cultures they interacted with, Romans preferred gold and included a wide variety of gemstones, such as emeralds, sapphires, and pearls. Jewelry pieces like brooches (fibulae) served not only decorative purposes but also practical functions, like fastening garments. The widespread use of rings, often set with engraved gemstones, reflected both personal adornment and social status.
Byzantine (Circa 330–1453 A.D.)
Lot 216 | A Byzantine Gold and Garnet Cross Pendant | Estimate: $1,200 - 1,800
Lot 212 | A Pair of Byzantine Gold, Pearl, and Glass Earrings | Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000
Byzantine jewelry inherited Roman traditions while incorporating Christian symbolism. Gold remained the dominant material, and pieces were often embellished with enamels and colorful gemstones. Crosses and other religious iconography became prevalent, reflecting the empire's deep Christian faith. Jewelry from this period was not only decorative but also served as a display of piety and wealth.
Islamic (Circa 7th Century onwards)
Lot 203 | An Islamic Gold Necklace | Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000
Lot 208 | A Byzantine or Islamic Gold Bird Pendant | Estimate: $600 - 800
Islamic jewelry is noted for its intricate designs and the use of calligraphy, geometric patterns, and arabesques, reflecting broader artistic trends within Islamic art. Due to religious beliefs discouraging the depiction of human figures, artisans focused on abstract and floral motifs. Materials such as gold, silver, and gemstones were commonly used, and jewelry often served as portable wealth and a symbol of social status.
Neoclassical (Circa 16th–19th Century)
Lot 226 | A Neoclassical Gold and Carnelian Finger Ring with a Portrait Bust of Homer | Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000
Lot 253 | A Neoclassical Gold Figure of the Goddess Flora | Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000
The Neoclassical period saw a revival of classical Greek and Roman aesthetics in jewelry design. Cameos and intaglios featuring mythological scenes became popular, and designs often incorporated classical motifs such as laurel wreaths and urns. Materials like gold and enamel were prevalent, and there was a renewed interest in simplicity and symmetry, reflecting the broader artistic movements of the time.
Georgian (1714 - 1837)
Lot 2 | GEORGIAN, DIAMOND CLUSTER RING | Estimate: $600 - 800
Lot 3 | 19th CENTURY, TOPAZ AND DIAMOND RING | Estimate: $1,500 - 2,000
During the reign of the four Georges, lace pattern jewelry in pierced silver and gold complemented the fashion of the time. Diamonds were hand-faceted as rose and table cuts and set in silver. A gold backing could provide extra support for the piece and would not cause dark oxidized silver tarnish to rub onto the fabric of a dress. Allowing silver to oxidize created a glimmer and sparkle in candlelight. During this period, a large influx of colored gems from Brazil led to pink and pinkish-orange topaz becoming popular. Colored gems were often set with foil backing to enhance the intensity of color and shine. Sentimental jewels emerged during the late Georgian period and continued to gain popularity into Victorian times.
Victorian (1837 - 1901)
Lot 8 | ANTIQUE, DIAMOND AND YELLOW GOLD CLUSTER RING | Estimate: $700 – 900
Lot 11 | ANTIQUE, DIAMOND FLORAL BROOCH | Estimate: $1,500 - 2,500
During Queen Victoria's long reign, jewelry exhibited a variety of styles and gem usages. Jewelry design adapted to the new silhouette of high collars, tight bodices, and full skirts with petticoats, bustles, and pleats. As society transitioned from agrarian to industrial, jewelers capitalized on new techniques and increased production capabilities. Diamond cutting favored old mine cuts with high table facets and open culets to let more light into the gems. These were often set as cluster rings or earrings, as well as ‘en tremblant’ flower brooches. The colored gems favored during this period included amethysts, often sourced from Russia, and red garnets, which could be faceted or in cabochon form and referred to as carbuncles. Deep royal blue or green enamel work was also frequently seen during this time, along with beautiful and elaborate hand engraving on yellow gold as a canvas.
Lot 34 | RENAISSANCE REVIVAL, YELLOW GOLD, DIAMOND, AND ENAMEL RING | Estimate: $600 – 800
Lot 57 | REVIVALIST, ENAMEL AND GOLD BROOCH | Estimate: $600 - 800
With all eyes on Queen Victoria, sentimental jewels gained immense importance. Her husband, Prince Albert, passed away at the age of 42 in 1861, devastating the Queen, who wore black mourning attire for the remainder of her reign. As this fashion took hold, the use of black enamel and black materials, such as black jet and black onyx set in gold, became very popular. Mourning jewels in the form of lockets, cameos, and hair jewelry became fashionable expressions of sentiment, which also developed alongside the language of flowers, with pansies and forget-me-nots being especially prominent. Queen Victoria’s lengthy reign also witnessed other jewelry trends influenced by historic events. The Revivalist Jewelry of this period reflected its own era and encompassed Greek and Roman, Egyptian, Etruscan, and Renaissance styles. The Late Victorian period also marked the early development of platinum usage, bringing about entirely new possibilities and significant changes in jewelry design.
Belle Epoque (1871 - 1914) Edwardian (1901 - 1910) Gilded Age (1870 - 1900)
Lot 89 | EDWARDIAN, DIAMOND AND PLATINUM LORGNETTE WITH DIAMOND COLLET CHAIN | Estimate: $1,500 - 2,000
Lot 93 | EDWARDIAN, DIAMOND PIN | Estimate: $1,200 - 1,800
Depending on where you are and what you are referencing, the turn of the 19th century has different names. Yet, in jewelry design, there are similarities that define each era. In fashion, there was a shift from wide, voluminous petticoat skirts to a slenderer, form-fitting silhouette. No longer in mourning and referred to as the "Beautiful Era" in France, the tremendous growth in wealth prompted society to show off. With an influx of diamonds and the new use of platinum, jewelry was crafted to resemble lace. This delicacy in design also extended to garlands, swags, and bows. A notable metalwork technique during this period was knife-edge metalwork, where the back is wider and more structured, while the front, like a knife blade, is fine and thin. Besides diamonds, popular gems included aquamarine and pearls.
Art Deco (1919 - 1939)
Lot 98 | ART DECO, DIAMOND AND SYNTHETIC SAPPHIRE BRACELET | Estimate; $2,000 – 3,000
Lot 96 | ART DECO, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING | Estimate: $2,000 - 3,000
Although the period dates back to 1919, the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris placed the style front and center. The French jewelry houses Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Janesich, and Raymond Templier led the design direction for jewelry. Geometric designs, clean lines, and striking contrasts of color resulted in bold and daring works. Rubies, emeralds, and sapphires were favored accents to diamonds. Baguette and calibré-cut gems enabled intricate designs, as did the outline of black enamel. New materials in fine jewelry included jade, crystal, lapis lazuli, and silver. With the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922, Egyptomania captivated the public’s attention, along with interest in Chinese and Japanese culture. Stylistically, this brought new motifs and the use of carved gems from India. As the period progressed, Late Deco jewelry experimented with scale and new innovations, such as the double clip brooch. The onset of World War II abruptly ended the flapper, Gatsby, Jazz Age era as the use of platinum became restricted and opulence diminished.
Retro (Late 30’s - 40’s)
Lot 112 | RETRO, ROSE GOLD BRACELET | Estimate: $3,000 - 4,000
Lot 120 | RETRO, TRICOLOR GOLD, RUBY, AND DIAMOND FAN BROOCH | Estimate: $1,500 - 2,000
The Retro design style responded to wartime demands for platinum by creating jewelry primarily in “rose” or “pink” gold, utilizing copper alloy for an elegant soft tone. Volume replaced the use of costly diamonds. Women joined the war efforts, bringing with them a newfound freedom. Women wore suits and feminized their appearance with a brooch. Many rings from this period are referred to as ‘cocktail’ rings, set with large rectangular gemstones like aquamarine or citrine. As supplies of larger emeralds, sapphires, and rubies were cut off, the Retro era explored new color combinations, such as aquamarine and ruby or citrine and ruby, with the rubies acting as accent gems. Advances in goldwork enabled by technical innovations made track link bracelets highly popular. Tubogas, brick link, and ‘Ludo Hexagone’ are now all part of the Retro lexicon. Van Cleef & Arpels took center stage during this period with their exhibit at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. With women’s growing independence and the current fashion revival of wearing suits, Retro jewelry is experiencing renewed interest in the marketplace.